Dispatch Dining Guide Top 10 - M

Jay Cottrell is now executive chef at this showcase restaurant of the Cameron Mitchell organization.  The current menu, which consists of many long-standing items, might be supplemented by a summery rendition of halibut (poached instead of fried, served with lobster-like dumplings in a light, flavorful broth), while carefully sauteed scallops are in danger of being overshadowed by the accompanying lobster risotto, full of shellfish aromas.  An all-American dessert list is more than just whimsy, with imaginative, first class house-made sorbets (pinot noir is a recent example) and gelatos (such as raspberry port) and the fanciest rootbeer float around (granita and whipped cream supplement the root beer, and decadent soft chocolate chip cookies provide sin).  The elaborate and elegant decor, like the menu, has stood the test of time, with some of the lighting changing throughout the evening.  Service is upscale-attentive.  The summertime fixed price menu ($35 for three courses, all drawn from the menu) is a carefully guarded secret; you'll have to ask.  An expensive wine list is not as lengthy as it has been but still covers a fair range.  Serving dinner Monday-Saturday; valet parking.