Review of M

Review By: Jon Christensen, The Columbus Dispatch - May 3, 2007


The first impression (decor that’s lavish and extremely varied in its use of shapes, materials and colors, some of which change as the evening wears on) leaves no doubt that this is the quality flagship of the Cameron Mitchell restaurant empire.

The large, expert staff was trained under the watchful eyes of general manager Walter Carpenter, who has been promoted within the Cameron Mitchell organization but still has M (under new general manager Gregg Sheffer) within his elevated sphere of responsibility.

Like his predecessor, new executive chef Brian Parker serves food that isn’t afraid to focus on Heartland ingredients and recipes along with Pacific-Rim incursions (seared ahi tuna finished with a kalamata olive sauce and served over artichoke risotto).

Thus, an excellent entree of Amish chicken with root vegetables and wild mushrooms coexists with a number of sushi items and a large assortment of steaks. European influences also abound, as in the halibut with housemade lobster ravioli.

The dessert list is more resolutely Americana: How about "coffee and doughnuts"(coffee semifreddo accompanied by apple fritters filled with pastry cream plus a Bailey’s caramel and raspberry sauce in which to dip them) or banana bread pudding?

The wine list is not cheap but extensive, reorganized for greater variety and easier reading. It yields gems for those willing to read carefully.

Serving dinner Monday through Saturday; valet parking ($5).


GIFT CARDS      CAREERS        SIGN UP        SEND US EMAIL

2 Miranova Place | Columbus, Ohio 43215 | (614) 629-0000 |  Map and Directions  |   Mobile Site