M goes straight to source for roots, other vegetables

Review By: Jon Christensen, The Columbus Dispatch
December 23, 2004


A new menu at M – Cameron Mitchell’s flagship restaurant – puts more emphasis on prime ingredients and less on elaborate sauces and presentations.

Executive chef Brian Hinshaw is able to obtain much of what he showcases from within Ohio.

“We try to be source-based, with less manipulation,” he said.  For vegetables, that means ordering from the Farmer Jones operation in northern Ohio.

That’s how Hinshaw gets the lineup for his new menu’s “roasted root crop” side dish, which typically contains “red dragon” and a couple of other types of carrots; turnips, picked young and sweet; “watermelon” radish; and several kinds of potatoes.

What Hinshaw likes is being able to call in his order, knowing that only then will someone go out to the fields (or, in winter, the greenhouses) and pick the vegetables, which will be in his kitchen in fewer than 24 hours.

“We talk every day,” said Hinshaw, who likes to build his specials around the best of what’s available.  Of course, such a goal involves more than the best in vegetables.  For Amish-type poultry, he turns to Park Farms, which slaughters chickens to order.

“You can easily taste the difference” when it’s raised right and delivered fresh, Hinshaw said.

The new menu features young chicken with the roasted roots, wild mushrooms, bacon, and a simple pan sauce ($21).

To finish, consider ordering a dessert platter, which can include a sampling of the mostly American items on the new list.  For $7 a person, you can wind up with a molten chocolate-center cake, peanut-butter banana cake with banana ice cream, an excellent fudgelike chocolate pate made with passion fruit and accompanied by chocolate-toffee ice cream and passion fruit sauce, and a trio of miniature crème brulees served with a house made version of Cracker Jack.


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